Intricate, ornamental, golden and splendid - that's the metallic needlework 'Zardozi' for you. Zardozi, a Persian word translating to "golden embroidery" in English, utilises metallic threads to embellish fabrics.
The history
Brought from Persia to India by the Mughals, the charm of Zardozi spread far and wide in the country as soon as it hit the artisans' homes and the markets. While its exact origins are unknown, Lucknow is largely regarded as the central nucleus of this intricate craft. It is said that it was under the Nawabs of Oudh that this craft bloomed.
The revival
Zardozi embroidery flourished under the patronage of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah and other Nawabs of Lucknow, who had much to do in elevating Zardozi to a recognised symbol of royalty and heritage. Although the craft saw a decline during British rule and in the years that followed, it never vanished. Passed down through generations of kaarigars (artisans), Zardozi managed to hold its ground. In the recent decades, it recuperated in such a grand manner that in 2013, recognising its cultural significance, the Geographical Indication (GI) Registry granted the "Lucknow Zardozi" a GI tag.
Besides Lucknow, cities like Hyderabad, Agra, Delhi, Kashmir, Kolkata, among a few others, are also recognised today as Zardozi craft hubs.
The craftsmanship
Traditionally, artisans made use of a needle called ari and gold and silver threads, to create elaborate designs that shone with regal grace. Pearls, sequins, beads, precious stones, etc, joined this elegant symphony of the threads, resulting in unmatched embroidery work. Whether it was a delicate saree on which Zardozi was carved or a pretty purse, the artistry of Zardozi transformed basic textiles into pure art and craft.
The future of Zardozi fashion
While Zardozi continues to hold its regal charm, today’s designers are reimagining this traditional craft in vogue silhouettes and modern wear. From luxurious bridal lehengas and to elegant sherwanis, clutches, bags and even footwear, Lakhnawi Zardozi now finds, and will continue to do so owing to its age-old cultural heritage, a place in both ethnic and fusion wardrobes.
